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Author Topic: Battery Powered for dead water.  (Read 597 times)
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Bryce R
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Posts: 104


« on: January 19, 2010, 11:02:31 AM »

Here is a little decoy I built this year. Only got to hunt him twice because the areas we choose to hunt had tons of current. But the few times we did use him he worked great.

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Cliff
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« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2010, 01:48:04 AM »

Bryce how did you do it.  Looked really good for still water hunting.  It did seem to move rather fast though anyway to slow it.  Great idea!

Cliff
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Jimmy Lambright
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Age: 42
Location: Katy, Texas
Posts: 101



« Reply #2 on: February 10, 2010, 01:20:00 PM »

Man I just had the idea to build my own radio controlled duck 2 or 3 nights ago while having trouble falling asleep. Im definately gonna attempt it. Will be great for when my 11 year old sone gets board.
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Ed Heinlein
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Age: 57
Location: Helena, Montana
Posts: 135


« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2010, 09:45:40 PM »

Like Cliff asked.....how'd you do it Bryce? Is it also a bilge pump powered unit?
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MattD
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Location: Middle Ga
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« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2010, 06:07:54 AM »

too cool. I had a good friend of mine build a remote control turkey. He bought a very nice all-terrain rc car, took everything off but the frame, motor, and tires and mounted a gobbler in full strut on top of it, the wings come down and hide the tires, put a removable fan on it to make it easier to load in and out of the truck. We don't drive it around the field or roads like a regular rc car but we just simply bump it a little bit to make it move a little around a hen decoy.
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Bryce R
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« Reply #5 on: April 08, 2010, 12:55:48 PM »

Sorry guys I forgot about this post. I took a 60/40 decoy and removed the keel. Got a bildge pump from Walmart. Trace the circle of the bilge pump on the decoy. Cut out and place bilge pump in decoy and expoxy in place. I ran the two wires down to a weight in the water then from there ran it to the blind. At the blind we have a control box that has a constant mode and a pulsing mode. You can also get a timer module that you can adjust time on where the decoy is on for 5 secs and off for five, or adjust it so its on for 30 seconds and off for 30. Its all in what you want to spend on the little critter.

For you remote control guys go to walmart and buy their remote control boats (Run's about $30) then either get  a shell or cut the bottom out of a decoy and place it on top of the boat. Now you have a remote decoy that was less then $40. If you have a young kid this helps them stay interested when its slow.
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Ed Heinlein
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Age: 57
Location: Helena, Montana
Posts: 135


« Reply #6 on: April 11, 2010, 07:40:23 PM »

Sorry for being so dense, but do I understand that you are placing the "dome", where the wires enter the pump, up INTO the decoy, just leaving the outlet nozzle at the base of the decoy? I had seen others where they attached the intake cover to the bottom of the decoy, and then used a series of elbows etc. to "port" the output close to the bottom of the decoy. Really cool idea man!
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Bryce R
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« Reply #7 on: April 19, 2010, 11:32:31 AM »

No problem. I placed the dome up into the decoy because I wanted to cut down on all the drag in the water that I could. That was my reasoning for just leaving the intake and outlet sticking out. I hope that makes since.
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